Sewing

14th Century sleeveless shift- Fingerloop braided lacing cords

In the last several posts we have constructed a sleeveless shift.  Now to the final step which is making the lacing cords.  Yes, I know I could just use some shoe laces or some ribbon.  I figured since I had already drafted the pattern and handstitched the garment out of linen fabric and thread I… Continue reading 14th Century sleeveless shift- Fingerloop braided lacing cords

Research, Sewing

14th C. Sleeveless Shift – Spiral lacing holes

Now that the bodice and the skirt are completed we need to add the lacing holes.  The bodice will be laced on the side using a spiral lacing pattern.  I have found that this type of lacing holds more firmly than an "X" pattern lacing, especially for someone more endowed like I am.   The first… Continue reading 14th C. Sleeveless Shift – Spiral lacing holes

Sewing

Sleeveless shift – Skirt

In the previous post, the bodice of the shift was patterned and sewn together.  The next step is to add the skirt. The skirt is easy enough to pattern.  It is merely two rectangles that will be be sewn together at the side seams and then pleated into the bodice.  The finishing touch will be… Continue reading Sleeveless shift – Skirt

Sewing

A sleeveless shift for 14th-15th Century clothing – The Bodice

The first step in making any garment is to decide what you are making.  I wanted to start making the innermost garment layer so I am making a sleeveless shift.  It consists of a fitted (self-supporting) bodice which ends just under the bust with a pleated skirt that reaches just below the knees. Next, taking… Continue reading A sleeveless shift for 14th-15th Century clothing – The Bodice

Sewing

A New Book in the Mail

I recently obtained a copy of "Historical Costume - Inside and out: The Women's Clothing in Northern Europe 1360-1415".  Currently it is only available in Swedish but an English version is due out some time soon (early 2021).  I was excited to get a look at the book.  I have had an interest for some… Continue reading A New Book in the Mail

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Åsle Tå Mitten Bibliography

Bibliography – Sources CitedArbman, Holger; "Åslevanten: I. Äldre Handbeklädnad" in Nordiska Museets och Skansens Årsbok, Fataburen; 1934; pages 67-72.Briansdotter, Sigrid; Nålbinding: The Åsle Mitten Stitch: An Instruction Manual: U (U) O/U O:U OO F1+1; © Anne Marie Decker; Tangle Fairies, Snohomish WA, 2000. Hald, Margrethe; Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs And Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume… Continue reading Åsle Tå Mitten Bibliography

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Fulling and Fringing

To Full (Felt) or Not to Full (Felt)Once the mitten was completed with the exception of the fringe I had to look at whether or not to full it. Where there have been several naalbinded items found that show the fibers either matted or felted together this is not the case with the Åsle mitten.… Continue reading Fulling and Fringing

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The Mitten Pattern

PATTERN (See Appendix A for process steps with photographs - I will post this later with photos)Make a starting chain (caterpillar) of four stitchesRound 1:  Attach the next stitch to the side of the chain with an F1+1 connection.  Make a new stitch in the same connector.  Continue to the end of the chain making… Continue reading The Mitten Pattern

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A discussion on construction of the mitten

ConstructionThe Mitten        I used a natural colored coarse wool from Mora, a small village near Dalarna Sweden, which was machine spun in an S-spin (left or counter-clockwise) direction and Z-plied (right or clockwise direction). It measures 2-3mm in diameter. I chose to use a machine spun wool over hand-spun as I did not have enough… Continue reading A discussion on construction of the mitten