Sewing

14th Century sleeveless shift- Fingerloop braided lacing cords

In the last several posts we have constructed a sleeveless shift.  Now to the final step which is making the lacing cords.  Yes, I know I could just use some shoe laces or some ribbon.  I figured since I had already drafted the pattern and handstitched the garment out of linen fabric and thread I should make the lacing cords too.  Fingerloop braiding was popular during this time period for creating such things.

Fingerloop braided lacing cord
Close up of fingerloop braided lacing cord done in sewing thread

I had never been able to remember from time to time how to do fingerloop braiding.  So, I set out to find instructions that would somehow stick in my brain so that I could remember every time I wanted to make lacing cords.  As I am working on a long term project that will need additional sets of lacing cords I figured I would want to learn in such a way that I don’t have to keep looking the instructions up every time I want to make more. And I found them.

Fingerloop braiding is done with loops of thread or yarn on several fingers of both hands.  Most instructions show hands with loops on the fingers, palms facing each other.  With the instructions I found the hands are set up with the loops on the fingers and each hand horizontal with the palms facing down.  In my cords I used five loops or bowes as the original instructions call them.

I cut five lengths of thread equal to slightly more than twice the length I needed for my cords.  I folded them in half and tied all of the ends together in one not near that end of the loops.  I then anchored the knotted loops to a stationary point as I would be pulling against that anchor for tension on the braid.

Now we begin the braiding.  Or as my brain understands it, weaving.  Yes, I said weaving.  By positioning your hands with palms facing downward it puts the loops in a weaving position like a warp on a weaving loom. I am making a five loop braid and have three loops on my left hand and two loops on my right hand.  I am using the index, middle, and ring fingers of each hand.

Hands in downward position showing “warp” of process

To begin I take the index finger of my right hand and weave it over and under each of the “warp” threads on my left hand starting with the threads looped on the left index finger.

Weaving through the loops
Weaving through the loops in over under process

Over, under, over, under until I reach the loop on the left ring finger.

Weaving through until reaching the last loop on the ring finger

Instead of weaving my right index finger through it I “grab” the first side of the ring finger loop.  Letting go of the loop with my ring finger I then pull it through the middle of the loops, he ones on my middle and index fingers, as though pulling a weft through a shed.

Pulling loop through
Pulling loop from ring finger through the loops on the middle and index finger

Now I have two loops on my left hand and three loops on my right hand.  The loop that was previously on the left ring finger is now on the right index finger.  I move the two loops on the left hand over one finger so that they are now on the ring finger and middle finger.  This leaves the index finger free to start the process over in the opposite direction.

Two loops on the left hand and three loops on the right hand

Before repeating the previous steps I make sure to tighten the braid by spreading my hands apart to send the braid to the other end of the work.

Tightening or tensioning braid

Then we repeat the process by reversing directions.  Take the left index finger and weave it in an over / under pattern through the loops on the right index finger and middle finger.  Grab the loop on the right ring finger and pull it through as if it were a weft thread.  Reposition the two remaining loops on the right hand, pull your hands apart to tension the braid to the other end of the work.  Voila!  

Keep going until you have your completed braid.  I tied the end to keep the braid from 

Completed fingerloop braid

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